When I was young, I was a wild dreamer. To be honest, I still am.
I always dreamed that I would be a husband, a father, but I had no idea that I would be a big wave surfer.
Today, those roles define me and shape me, pushing me to connect with my family, make conscious choices, and facing any challenge.
To make a difference, you must be the difference.
People call me a pioneer of big wave surfing. I guess that’s true. But I couldn’t have faced the world’s biggest waves without my wife. She buoys me up, pushes me on, and inspires me with her goodness.
My undeniable draw to the ocean has led me to realize that we have to change. Our Earth is screaming out in pain, and I aim to hear that call and come to her rescue. Changing habits and making conscious decisions that will bless the next generation is where we can all start.
Fatherhood is scary. It’s an unceasing challenge that has stretched my patience and increased my capacity to love and serve. There is no thrill quite like watching your children learn something. Especially when that something has given you everything.
The sensation of paddling against a current has taught me that there is a beautiful balance to life. I bring that lesson with me as time moves forward. I will get where I need to go if I am present, conscious, and persistent.
I move Forever Forward.